There are many
different directions in which I could take this blog. My only constraint is my perceived covenant
with you, my readers. And I figure that
as long as I remain on topics that affect urban life, I’m within that
covenant. So, today I choose to talk about
urban restaurants.
First and
most importantly, chains need not apply.
I’m willing to consider restaurants with two or three locations. An owner with a sound vision can operate a
few nearby locations without defaulting to a corporate mindset. But Applebee’s, no matter how well a
franchise might physically adapt to an urban setting, will never be an “urban”
restaurant. An Applebee’s would be
beholden to a vision from corporate headquarters in Kansas, not its urban location.
Second, the
location must be walkable urban, meeting three criteria: little or no parking
on the street side of the restaurant, good sidewalks or other pedestrian
accommodations, and a location close to transit or within a short walking
distance of homes.
Third, the
restaurant must have character. I don’t
much care what kind of character, but it should be the kind of place that isn’t
easily forgotten.
With those
criteria in place, I have three places to share. Two would require airfare for most readers,
but one requires only a short detour when you’re next heading to Sacramento.
Voula’s Offshore Café is in a gritty, water-oriented industrial district of
Seattle. I-5 is on an overpass far overhead. But at ground level, the key feature is the
waterway connecting Portage Bay and Lake Union, part of the water landscape
that defines Seattle. Early development
of hydroplanes happened in this neighborhood.
And, for many years, Pocock racing shells were made only a few feet
away.
Today,
marine businesses continue to be the primary employers. And marine employees seem to be among Voula’s
primary customers. But an older
residential neighborhood begins only a few blocks to the north. And even closer is the Burke-Gilman Trail, a well-used
bicycle-pedestrian trail, making Voula’s a convenient stop during weekend rides.
Voula is
Greek and the hospitality reflects that heritage, but the menu is broader,
including standard American diner fare and nods to the Pacific Northwest. The salmon smoking in the parking lot reflects
the latter.
The interior
reflect Voula’s status as a neighborhood hangout, clean but not fussy. Heavy, solid furnishings. And a corner dedicated to the rowers who use
Pocock shells.
The food
matches the décor. Nothing pretty, but
well-prepared, simply-presented hearty fare.
My breakfast choice was the Greek Hobo, a scramble of eggs, potatoes,
onions, mushrooms, and Greek sausage, topped with feta cheese.
The sausage
was marvelous, with a good texture, firm but not overly coarse, and light
seasoning. But what made the dish was
the gentle touch with the eggs. Only
enough egg was used to bind the other ingredients together. It wasn’t an egg dish. It was a potato and sausage dish that held
together well. It was also a meal that I
could have again and again.
I was also
tempted by the Chinese pancake, which you can watch on the video clip on
Voula’s webpage. Maybe next time.
My only
regret is that I now know that Voula’s opened its doors in 1984, three years
before I moved from Seattle. And it’s on
a street that I often drove back then.
Had I found it back in 1984, I might never have moved away.
I was in the
Northwest escorting my mother on a baseball roadtrip. She’s a season-ticket holder for the Sacramento
River Cats. Beginning six years ago, she
and I have taken annual roadtrips with the ballclub, giving her a chance to see
her team in visiting uniforms. We’ve
gone to Portland, Albuquerque, Memphis, Nashville, and elsewhere.
I mention
this because a feature of the each trip has been a meal with the ballclub’s radio
broadcaster, Johnny Doskow, who has become a friend. Doskow has been broadcasting in the Pacific
Coast League for nearly fifteen years, which has given him the opportunity to
find the best restaurants throughout much of the country. Mother’s in Portland, Gus’s Fried Chicken in
Memphis, Pancake Pantry in Nashville.
All were Doskow’s recommendations and all were good food.
In Tacoma,
his recommendation was Southern Kitchen, a restaurant about a mile uphill from
downtown Tacoma and nicely settled within the older residential grid of the
city.
Not
surprisingly, the cuisine was southern.
Perhaps more surprisingly, it was good southern food despite being about
as far from the South as one could be in the U.S. without venturing to Alaska
or Hawaii.
At the
server’s recommendation, I went with the chicken-fried steak. It wasn’t a regular breakfast choice for me,
but I’m glad that I took the advice.
Nicely crispy, with a well-made gravy, and paired with a couple of eggs
that were exactly as requested. The only
weak note was the grits and that was my fault.
I think I should like grits so keep ordering them. But I’ve yet to find grits appealing and
should just go with the potatoes.
In addition
to good recommendations, the server also brought life to the meal with
attentive service and a good line of patter.
When I asked for the check, “Skitzo” offered a sorrowful look and
explained that he was no longer allowed to handle cash “after that $2,000 went
mysteriously missing.” When I went to
the register to pay, Skitzo was there to take my money, explaining that he was
“just messing” with me.
Overall,
solid food in a comfortable, enjoyable setting.
Highly recommended.
Lastly, I’ve
twice mentioned Bab’s Delta Diner in this blog.
But I hadn’t yet found the right opportunity to eat there. Recently, I was finally able to drop by Suisun
City while it was open. It was worth the
effort.
Architecturally,
Bab’s Delta Diner is a bit of a puzzle.
The exterior shell is consistent with the downtown redevelopment, a
competent structure that seems recently built and fits with the waterfront
theme of the redevelopment. But step
through the door and it feels like a diner of fifty years ago. I don’t mean that in a negative sense, only
that the layout seems a bit random and the furnishings are worn in the right
spots. It feels comfortable in a
well-worn shoe kind of way.
And the food
is consistent with that feeling. Nothing
very fancy, just good solid diner fare.
I had Rod’s Special, corned beef hash topped with cheddar cheese and a
pair of poached eggs. Normally I’d worry
that the cheddar cheese would overpower the hash, but it was a full-bodied
flavorful hash that allowed the cheese to be an effective complement. And the eggs were done perfectly.
I arrived
late in the Delta Diner’s business day.
People were still coming in the door, but the place was gradually
emptying as the 2:00pm closing time approached.
As a result, the diner was overstaffed, with the young waitstaff
clustered near the register, slightly giddy with the approach of a Saturday
evening.
The young
man who waited on me, a white teenager with a buzz cut, was in an effusive
mood, quickly dubbing me “Buddy” and waiting on me with an alacrity that verged
on haste. I had to catch the silverware
before it slid off the counter. When he called
the middle-aged African-American man next to me “Brother”, I found it a bit
close to the edge, but no one took offense.
While I ate,
the Olympic 10,000 meters was playing on a television, although the race length
wasn’t being shown on the screen. It was interesting to watch the waitstaff try
to figure out the length, given the elapsed race time and the number of laps
being run.
After long
consideration, one decided that it was 100 meters (huh?). Another went with 6 miles (close but the
Olympics went metric before any of them were born). A third came up with 9,000 meters (not a
traditional race length). They finally
settled on 10,000 meters, but only after the high school teachers in the diner
were hanging their heads in shame.
It was fun
to watch the youthful exuberance. Some patrons
might have found it a distraction, but I enjoyed remembering the days of my
youth. And it reminded me that a primary
reason for urbanism is leaving a more sustainable world for the next
generation. Even if they think that it
takes nearly thirty minutes to cover 100 meters.
As always,
your questions or comments will be appreciated.
Please comment below or email me.
And thanks for reading. - Dave Alden (davealden53@comcast.net)
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